There are lots of Tiny Tot Totes out there on the Internet so I am adding one more. To give credit where credit is due, it is based on the Green Bag Lady's Shopping Bag Pattern. I just added a liner and some different finishing and shrunk it to fit a little tiny person. Her pattern is much more concise if you want to go that route. Mine also takes just 2 fat quarters, though you actually use less than 2.
As always, if you find problems or it's confusing please let me know!
Tiny Tot Fat Quarter Tote
• 2 coordinating Fat quarters (For an unlined bag just use 1 fat quarter and directions for fabric A)
• Rotary cutter & mat
• Sewing Machine and coordinating thread.
• Pencil or disappearing ink fabric pen
Iron your fat quarters to remove fold lines.
Choose which will be your outer fabric. That will be fabric A and your remaining fat quarter will be your lining, which will be fabric B.
Place fabric A on your cutting mat. Trim to measure 21 inches x 16 ½ inches.
Set scraps aside in the scrap pile for another project or to embellish your bag.
From the 21 x 16 ½ inch piece, cut a strip 21 inches x 6 inches.
Cut this strip again to 18 x 6 Inches.
Then cut into 2 strips 18 x 3 inches. Set aside.
Put scraps in scrap pile.
From the remaining piece, which should measure 10 ½ inches by 21 inches, cut two 10 ½ inch x 10 ½ inch squares.
You should now have two 18 x 3 inch strips and two 10 ½ x 10 ½ inch squares. Set these aside.
From Fabric B cut a 10 ½ inch x 22 inch strip.
Trim to 10 ½ inch x 21.
Cut to make two 10 ½ inch x 10 ½ inch squares.
Set aside scraps in scrap pile.
You now have two 18 x 3 strips and four 10 ½ x 10 ½ inch squares.
The next step you can either do one or 2 at a time or all at once, by stacking your squares.
If you are doing one or 2 at a time, fold your square(s) in half. Do not fold if you are stacking all 4 squares.
Trace a square 1 ½ inch x 1 ½ inch in the bottom corner that is NOT folded, on the wrong (back) side of the fabric.
Then cut out the square.
Repeat with the remaining squares. When you are done, your squares should have the bottom right and left corners with a square cut out.
Set these aside.
Next, get your strap fabric and fold in the edge about ¼ of an inch along the length and press down the edge of the strap.
Repeat for the other side and the ends.
Fold in half down the length and press.
Sew a 1/8th inch seam around the outside edges, back-stitching at the beginning and the end.
Keep the needle down in the fabric and raise the presser foot to turn the corner.
Repeat for second strap.
You can go around a second time with a 1/4 inch seam if you like.
Set the straps aside.
Take an outside panel and a liner panel and pin along the top with right sides together, matching the cuts at the bottom as best you can. (The top matching exactly matters less than the bottom.) Pin the second set.
Sew a ¼” seam, backstitching at the beginning and end. Repeat for the other set of panels.
(*You can also sew the side seams when you sew the top seam, to hide the raw edges. It just makes the bag a little smaller. In this tutorial I leave them showing.)
Press your seams open.
Fold right sides out and press flat.
Lay your panels out liner side up and mark for strap placement. I did 2 inches in from each side.
Then mark your straps for how far down into the bag you want them. I marked at about 1 ½ inches.
Then pin your straps on, making sure they are not twisted. I have my marking dot on the panel to the outside of the strap.
Do this for both straps.
Use topstitching to sew down straps ¼ inch from edge. Backstitch on both ends as well as when you go over the straps.
Use a second row of topstitching an inch from the edge to sew down the bottoms of the straps. Backstitch on both ends.
Sew an X in between the topstitching on the strap. Start in one corner, backstitch a couple of stitches and sew diagonally to the opposite corner. Put your needle in the down position and turn. Sew straight across to the other corner. Put the needle in the down position and turn to go diagonally down to the opposite corner. Sew straight across the top back to your starting point and backstitch a little.
Matching the corners, pin the sides with the liner on the outside.
Continue pinning across the bottom, and the other side, matching the corner cuts as best you can.
Sew down the first side, backstitching at beginning and end, and stopping when you get to the cutouts in the corner. We will leave those un-sewn for now.
Sew across the bottom backstitching at beginning and end again stopping at the cut corner. Sew up the other side in the same way.
When all 3 sides are sewn, make a dot to mark the center of the cut corner with a fabric pen on both sides of the liners (4 dots total).
(In this picture the seams are not sewn. It doesn't matter if you mark before or after.)
Take the bottom corners and pull apart to match up the bottom seam and side seam. The dots from both liners in one corner should now be across from each other. Make sure you have 2 layers of fabric on each side, a liner and an outside.
Pin and sew the seam, backstitching well. Check to make sure all the layers were sewn in and there are no gaps.
Repeat for the other corner.
Zigzag or overcast the seams to prevent fraying.
Turn right side out and admire your work!